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{{Short description|Marine protected area off of California, USA}} '''Cordell Bank National Marine Sanctuary''' is a [[marine sanctuary]] located off the coast of [[California]]. It protects an area of {{convert|1286|sqmi||0|abbr=on}} of marine wildlife. The administrative center of the sanctuary is on an offshore granite outcrop {{convert|4.5|sqmi|km2|0|abbr=on}} by {{convert|9.5|sqmi|km2|0|abbr=on}}, located on the [[continental shelf]] off of California. The outcrop is, at its closest (Point Reyes), {{convert|6|mi|km|0|abbr=on}} from the sanctuary itself.<ref name="cordell-about">{{cite web|url=http://cordellbank.noaa.gov/sanctuary/welcome.html|title=About the Sanctuary|publisher=[[NOAA]]|access-date=25 November 2009}}</ref> Cordell Bank is one of the United States' 13 [[U.S. National Marine Sanctuary|National Marine Sanctuaries]] that protect and preserve ocean ecosystems in the U.S. Cordell Bank is a [[seamount]] approximately {{convert|50|mi|km}} northwest of San Francisco where the ocean bottom rises to within {{convert|115|ft|m|0|abbr=off}} of the surface.<ref>[https://cordellbank.noaa.gov/about/ "Cordell Bank National Marine Sanctuary"] at NOAA.gov</ref> The seamount was discovered in 1853 by the [[United States Coast and Geodetic Survey|United States Coast Survey]], and named for Edward Cordell, who surveyed the area more thoroughly in 1869. It was extensively explored and described during 1978–86 by [[Robert Schmieder]], who published a monograph about it [Schmieder, 1991]. It has been protected as a sanctuary since May 24, 1989.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Sanctuary Designations & Expansions |url=https://sanctuaries.noaa.gov/about/designations.html |access-date=October 17, 2024 |website=NOAA}}</ref> The protected area encompasses 526 square miles (1347 km<sup>2</sup>) of ocean. The unique blend of ocean conditions and undersea [[topography]] creates a rich and diverse underwater ecosystem. A subsurface island rises from soft sediments covering the continental shelf. The upper pinnacles reach to within {{convert|115|ft|m|0|abbr=on}} of the surface, and the average depth is {{convert|400|ft|m|0|abbr=on}}. The sanctuary serves as a breeding ground for migratory marine mammals, birds, and fish. The prevailing [[California Current]] flows southward along the coast, causing an upwelling of nutrient-rich water that provided the foundation for the area's marine ecosystem.<ref name="cordell-about" /> Sanctuary regulations prohibit extraction of hydrocarbons (oil, natural gas), the removal of [[benthic]] (bottom-dwelling) organisms, discharge of wastes, and removal of cultural resources. Recreational [[SCUBA diving]] is not recommended in the sanctuary due to depth and currents. ==Geological setting== [[File:Cordell Bank.jpg|right|thumb|Underwater topography of Cordell Bank showing seamount and nearby Farallon Islands]] Cordell Bank was originally created 93 million years ago, as a member of the [[Sierra Nevada (U.S.)|Sierra Nevada]]. The grinding of the plates at the [[San Andreas Fault]], with the [[Pacific Plate]] moving north and the [[North American Plate]] moving south, parts of the Sierra Mountains were sheared off and carried northwards, including Cordell Bank. Eventually this grinding carried Cordell Bank to its present location opposite Reyes Point. Cordell Bank is still moving, by an average of {{convert|3|cm|in|0|abbr=on}} per year.<ref name="cordell-geo">{{cite web|url=http://cordellbank.noaa.gov/environment/geo_history.html|title=Natural Natural Environment: Geologic History|publisher=[[NOAA]]|access-date=26 November 2009}}</ref> Between 20,000 and 15,000 years ago the [[sea level]] in the area was {{convert|360|ft|m|0|abbr=on}} below the current level, leaving most of Cordell Bank exposed and making it a true island. Today the bank rises out of soft sediment, deposited on the bank more recently by [[coastal erosion]]. Within just {{convert|7|mi|m|0|abbr=on|sp=us}} of Cordell Bank, the continental shelf drops to over {{convert|1|mi|km|0|abbr=on}} deep.<ref name="cordell-geo"/> The seamount is largely composed of [[granite]]. ==History== Coastal California has a rich history of marine utilization by [[Indigenous peoples of the Americas|Native American]]s and [[Settler|early settler]]s. Cordell Bank was a mystery prior to the 19th century because neither the [[Miwok]] natives nor the settlers had any incentive to venture far out from shore, when food resources were available close to shore. Many European mariners sailed right over Cordell Bank without even knowing it was there.<ref name="cordell-hist">{{cite web|url=http://cordellbank.noaa.gov/history/welcome.html|title=Natural The History of Cordell Bank|publisher=[[NOAA]]|access-date=26 November 2009}}</ref> In the later half of the 1800s there was a strong incentive to survey the coast of California so as to promote maritime safety. Cordell Bank was discovered in 1853 by [[George Davidson (geographer)|George Davidson]] of the [[United States Coast and Geodetic Survey|United States Coast Survey]] during a mapping expedition on California's north coast.<ref name="cordell-hist"/><ref name=Schmieder1985>{{cite journal |author=Schmieder, RW |title=The expeditions to Cordell Bank |journal=In: Mitchell, CT (Ed). Diving for Science…1985. Proceedings of the Joint American Academy of Underwater Sciences and Confédération Mondiale des Activités Subaquatiques annual scientific diving symposium 31 October - 3 November 1985 la Jolla, California, USA |year=1985 |url=http://archive.rubicon-foundation.org/9856 |archive-url=https://archive.today/20130705002053/http://archive.rubicon-foundation.org/9856 |url-status=usurped |archive-date=5 July 2013 |access-date=2013-05-27 }}</ref> In 1869 [[Edward Cordell]] (the reserve's namesake) was sent to collect additional information on a "shoal west of Point Reyes". He found the area by following the numerous birds and marine mammals. To measure the depth, Cordell lowered a lead weight into the water until it hit the bottom and then measured the length of the line on its return to the surface.<ref name=Schmieder1985/> The area was considered a productive fishing area, but not much was discovered about its marine life until an expedition in 1977.<ref name="cordell-hist"/> NOAA carried out a detailed [[multibeam echosounder]] survey of the area in 1985 from aboard the R/V ''Davidson''.<ref name=Schmieder1985/> The expedition was led by a [[non-profit]] research group, Cordell Expeditions.<ref name=Schmieder1985/> Over the next 10 years, scores of underwater dives documented the organisms living in, on, and around the bank. The efforts gave rise to an understanding of the biodiversity of the bank, and were instrumental in the decision to make it a sanctuary.<ref name="cordell-hist"/> ===Expansion=== A bill (H.R. 5352) was proposed to Congress by Representative [[Lynn Woolsey]] to expand the size of the Cordell Bank National Marine Sanctuary and the neighboring [[Gulf of the Farallones National Marine Sanctuary]] by {{convert|1094|sqmi|km2}}.<ref name=HR5352>{{cite web |author=Woolsey, Lynn C |author-link=Lynn Woolsey |title=H.R.5352 - Gulf of the Farallones and Cordell Bank National Marine Sanctuaries Boundary Modification and Protection Act |date=2004-10-08 |publisher=Congressional Bills 108th Congress: From the [[United States Government Printing Office]] |url=http://beta.congress.gov/bill/108th-congress/house-bill/5352/text |access-date=2013-05-27 }}</ref> In 2012, the [[National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration]] proposed an expansion of the borders of the sanctuary, along with expansion of the [[Gulf of the Farallones National Marine Sanctuary]], to include an additional 2,700 square miles, reaching to [[Point Arena, California|Point Arena]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/50269329/ns/business#.UNSWoIVygtE |title=Feds propose to expand 2 Calif. Marine sanctuaries - Business |website=[[MSNBC]] |access-date=13 January 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121231040003/http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/50269329/ns/business#.UNSWoIVygtE |archive-date=31 December 2012 |url-status=dead}}</ref> Expansion was passed March 2015.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://phys.org/news/2015-03-noaa-cordell-bank-gulf-farallones.html |title=NOAA expands Cordell Bank, Gulf of the Farallones marine sanctuaries off California |publisher=Phys.org |date= |accessdate=2022-04-05}}</ref> ==Biology== [[File:Cordell Bank National Marine Sanctuary school class spots gray whale 2016.png|thumb|left|A school class spots a [[gray whale]] in the sanctuary during a field trip for the Every Kid in a Park program in 2016.]] [[File:Cordell Bank National Marine Sanctuary Pacific white-sided dolphin.png|thumb|A [[Pacific white-sided dolphin]] flips out of the water in the sanctuary.]] [[File:Cordell Bank National Marine Sanctuary tufted puffin.png|thumb|left|A [[tufted puffin]] swims in the sanctuary.]] [[File:Cordell Bank-Rockfish Anemones.png|thumb|Rosy rockfish (''[[Sebastes rosaceus]]'') and strawberry anemones (''[[Corynactis californica]]'') at a depth of {{convert|55.5|m|0|sp=us}} in the sanctuary.]] [[File:Cordell Bank National Marine Sanctuary diver swims past strawberry anemones and orange hydroids.png|thumb|A research [[Scuba diving|diver]] swims past a colony of strawberry anemones (''[[Corynactis californica]]'') and orange hydroids (''[[Garveia]] annulata'' ) in the sanctuary.]] Twenty-six species of marine mammals, including [[whale]]s, [[dolphin]]s, [[Pinniped|seal]]s, and [[sea lion]]s, are known to frequent the waters of the sanctuary. In addition, Cordell Bank is one of the most important feeding grounds in the world for the endangered [[Blue whale|blue]] and [[Humpback whale|humpback]] whales; these species travel all the way from their breeding grounds in coastal Mexico and Central America to feed on the [[krill]] that aggregate near the bank. Another unique species is the [[Pacific white-sided dolphin]] (''Sagmatias obliquidens''), which can be seen in large numbers. Other visitors include [[California sea lion]]s (''Zalophus californianus''), [[northern elephant seal]]s <!--the source does not specify Northern or Southern, however California is out of the range of the southern varient--> (''Mirounga angustirostris''), [[northern fur seal]]s (''Callorhinus ursinus''), and [[Steller sea lion]]s (''Eumetopias jubatus''), all of which are attracted to the abundance in [[krill]], [[squid]], and [[juvenile fish]].<ref name="cordell-bio">{{cite web|url=http://cordellbank.noaa.gov/environment/bio_res.html|title=Natural Environment: Biological Resources|publisher=[[NOAA]]|access-date=26 November 2009}}</ref> [[Leatherback sea turtle]]s also inhabit sanctuary waters. Cordell Bank is also a major foraging ground for passing seabirds. Known as the "Albatross capital of the world," five of the 14 major species of [[albatross]] have been documented there. The two most common are the [[black-footed albatross]] (''Phoebastria nigripes'') and [[sooty shearwater]] (''Puffinus griseus''). It is also one of the few places to see a [[short-tailed albatross]] (''Phoebastria albatrus''), which is extremely rare; the species was thought to have gone extinct after [[World War II]]. Currently the world population hovers at around 1000 individuals.<ref name="cordell-bio"/> Cordell Bank is also known for its abundance of fish. [[Flatfish]], most notably [[Citharichthys|sanddabs]], make their home on the mud of the seafloor in the sanctuary. Both solitary and [[schooling fish]] find refuge for predators among the bank's rocky pinnacles. Cordell Bank supports more than 246 species of fish, including 44 species of [[striped bass|rockfish]], ranging in size from the 8-inch [[pygmy rockfish]] to the {{convert|3|ft|m|adj=on}} [[yelloweye rockfish]].<ref name="cordell-bio"/> Although far from shore, [[Sport fishing|sport fisher]]s prize Cordell Bank as a fishing spot, and regularly venture out from shore to catch [[albacore]] and [[salmon]].<ref name="cordell-bio"/> ===Ecologic cycle=== This unusual granite mountain is surrounded on three sides by deep waters, which allows the flow of deep nutrient-rich waters over relatively shallow waters with sufficient light to support [[photosynthesis]]. The ecological cycle at Cordell Bank can be divided into three oceanographic seasons. During the spring, strong northwestern winds push the water southward along the California coast. [[Gale|Gale wind]]s and the [[Earth's rotation]] drive surface water away from the shore, only to be replaced by an upwelling of more nutrient-rich waters from offshore. this contributes to the growth in numbers of [[phytoplankton]], which are the foundation of the marine [[food web]], in turn leading to a rise in the food supply, and thus numbers, of the organisms higher up the chain.<ref name="cordell-cycle">{{cite web|url=http://cordellbank.noaa.gov/environment/seasons.html|title=Natural Environment: Oceanographic Seasons|publisher=[[NOAA]]|access-date=26 November 2009}}</ref> During the late summer and fall seasons, the coastal winds that stirred up the deeper waters die down, and the northward-flowing [[Davidson Current]] prevails, bringing warm but nutrient-poor water from the south.<ref name="cordell-cycle"/> During the winter storm months, the sea is dominated by rough weather, which mixes the deeper water with that above. The temperature on top of the continental shelf mixes, and the temperature, [[salinity]], and the concentration of nutrients in them are assimilated.<ref name="cordell-cycle"/> ==See also== * [[List of marine protected areas of California]] ==References== {{Reflist}} '''Works cited''' * "A National Marine Sanctuary: Cordell Carpenter Bank," Published by the National Marine Sanctuary Program of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration ([[NOAA]]) * Schmieder, Robert W., 1991, ''Ecology of an Underwater Island'', Published by Cordell Expeditions, Walnut Creek, CA, http://www.cordell.org. See also: [[Schmieder Bank]] * Stallcup, Richard. 1990. '''Ocean Birds of the Nearshore Pacific''', Point Reyes Bird Observatory, Stinson Beach, CA. 214 pp. ==External links== *[http://cordellbank.noaa.gov/ Official sanctuary site] *[http://cordellbank.noaa.gov/images/environment/bfalbatross.mov Black-footed albatros clip] *[http://www.cordell.org/ Cordell expeditions] *[http://www.cordellfoundation.org/ Cordell Marine Sanctuary Foundation] {{Protected areas of California|NMS}} {{National marine sanctuaries of the United States}} {{Authority control}} [[Category:Marine sanctuaries in California]] [[Category:National Marine Sanctuaries of the United States]] [[Category:Seamounts of the Pacific Ocean]] [[Category:Protected areas of Marin County, California]] [[Category:Parks in the San Francisco Bay Area]] [[Category:Undersea banks of the Pacific Ocean]]